Might not be a big deal to a lot of you but I got surf Spot M nr Bude. Its a wave I have seen break for over 10 years ( when I was a holiday maker before I moved to Bude) I have seen it in Magazines but never thought I would ever get good enough to surf it . Well the day arrived. got my 9 ft Roger Tout board of the roof got changed no backing out now . Walk down to the waters edge and encounter the first peril getting in across the rocks and passed the shore break. Wait, wait then there's a gap in the waves Go paddle for all your worth passed the shorebreak. made it still got board in one piece plus a added bonus of dry hair.now the long paddle out to the peak. I sit on the shoulder of the wave for about 10 mins watching it , looking where the rocks are where the wave sections.. I then moved closer to the peak and waited my turn, then its my turn about a 5 foot wave , Paddle pop up take the drop made it then the section in front closds out BAIL. Pull on lease get on the board quick and paddle into the channel before getting caught on the inside. Phew made my first wave , not much of a ride but I did it. Paddle back to the peak and wait.
Here we go again jump to feet check behind me oh no Matt White taken of so deep he's in the white water coming screaming along the wave on his boggie board I don't think he will be to happy at a longboard dropping in on him head for shoulder and get out the way. Guess what? I did not make it got wiped out good style. get on board and once again paddle like mad for the channel. Matt comes paddling pass laughing his head off. "great wipeout Steve" "cheers Matt"
Yeap you've guessed it back to the peak and wait again,. at last a empty wave paddle , pop up , make the drop . At last I am surfing the wave I have wanted to surf for so long. When you watch from the shore you don't realize how close to the rocks you get on your bottom turns or how steep the take of is. I stayed out for another 4 waves cause the rides are so long and that makes it a long paddle back..
I total respect the guys /girls who go out on big days because today was nowhere near a big day but what a surf.I had
What made this surf even more than special was Lewis ( my son) was with me
Thank you Lewis and
Thank you spot M crew for putting up with me.
Here we go again jump to feet check behind me oh no Matt White taken of so deep he's in the white water coming screaming along the wave on his boggie board I don't think he will be to happy at a longboard dropping in on him head for shoulder and get out the way. Guess what? I did not make it got wiped out good style. get on board and once again paddle like mad for the channel. Matt comes paddling pass laughing his head off. "great wipeout Steve" "cheers Matt"
Yeap you've guessed it back to the peak and wait again,. at last a empty wave paddle , pop up , make the drop . At last I am surfing the wave I have wanted to surf for so long. When you watch from the shore you don't realize how close to the rocks you get on your bottom turns or how steep the take of is. I stayed out for another 4 waves cause the rides are so long and that makes it a long paddle back..
I total respect the guys /girls who go out on big days because today was nowhere near a big day but what a surf.I had
What made this surf even more than special was Lewis ( my son) was with me
Thank you Lewis and
Thank you spot M crew for putting up with me.
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